A first-timer’s guide to the magical island of Madeira

Located off the west coast of Africa but also an autonomous region of Portugal, Madeira truly has its own identity.

Dubbed the ‘Hawaii of Europe’, home to both tropical fruit and legendary wine, seaside resorts and remote mountain villages, misty forests and rocky beaches, it’s the kind of place that makes your head spin – in the best possible way.

When is the best time to visit Madeira?

Madeira enjoys a subtropical climate, with a near consistent average temperature of 70°F (21°C). January is the rainiest month, while the surrounding waters are warmest in September. If you're seeking peace and quiet, you may want to avoid the crush of tourists in August. Otherwise, Madeira is a great holiday option virtually year-round.

For the highest temperatures, the best time to visit Madeira is between August and September although the sub tropical climate offers sunshine throughout the year and winter months are equally popular with visitors. The hottest month of the year is August with an average daily maximum of 27 C and an average low of 21 C. The coolest month of the year is February with an average daily maximum of 18 C and an average low of 14 C.

Sunshine and rainfall

The driest month is June with 0 mm of rainfall and 30 perfect sunny days. The wettest month is April with 36 mm of rain over 3 days.

Is it easy to get to and around Madeira?

Madeira is accessible via Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (yes he’s a native to the island), which receives international flights, including direct flights from Manchester. Navigating the island itself can be slightly more challenging. While there is an extensive public bus system, reaching some of the more remote areas (particularly the popular Pico to Pico hike) for hiking or beach trips typically requires a car or booking on a tour.

Driving in Madeira can get a little hairy due to its steep, winding roads. If you're not comfortable with these driving conditions, renting an automatic vehicle (though more expensive than the standard European manual) is your best bet.

We rented an automatic and other than one hill that takes you up to Monte, the roads were no way near as bad as we’d braced ourselves for. We’d read countless guides warning us about the conditions of the roads, but I think these were mostly written by travellers who’re more used to North American/American roads. If you’re used to driving up country roads in the UK, you’ll be absolutely fine. Just stick to the main Espresso road, ignore Google maps (my single biggest Madeira tip!), and driving will be a dream.

This is the road you should avoid: Rua da Barreira.

I have no idea why Google Maps took us up here, but I can promise you you DON’T want to drive up this road. Located in Funchal, Rua da Barreira is one of the steepest roads in the world, with some brutal sections of 45% and an average gradient of 25.17%.

Fun fact, I drove up this road within my first 5 mins of driving in Madeira. I’d never driven abroad before and it was my first time driving an automatic. You have to give way at one of the steepest parts of the road, and as I did so, the engine cut out (without my knowing). I had no idea how to get it started again and thought: this is it. Thankfully, a very kind local who ushered me to pass him in his van earlier along the road got out of his vehicle and rescued the hill start for me. Lesson learned: do NOT drive on this road if you’re not a) comfortable driving abroad or b) comfortable with very intense hill starts.

After speaking to some locals after we’d cleared the road, they laughed when I told them where it was and responded ‘ah, the road to hell. You must avoid the hell road’.

The rest of the roads were genuinely a dream, and no way near as scary as some of the other resources out there make out. Just stick to the main roads, avoid Rua da Barreira, and you’ll be golden.

How long do I need in Madeira?

Because Madeira’s highlights are found at disparate points across the island, a stay of at least four days is your best bet. Consider a night in Funchal to get oriented, and supplement this with stays in one or two more destinations elsewhere on the island. Add on at least another two nights if you plan to hit Porto Santo, the other inhabited island that forms part of the Madeiran Archipelago.

We stayed for 10 days and still struggled to tackle all the incredible hikes you’ll find on the island. We based ourselves in Funchal for the whole duration so that we could access buses, taxis and tour providers easier, but we soon realised on arrival this isn’t necessary. Lots of tour providers will pick you up from other main spots on the island (such as Seixal), and if you hire a car you certainly don’t need to base yourself in Funchal for longer than a few days.

Top things to do in Madeira

Hike a levada or a vereda

Nearly all of Madeira’s rain falls on the island’s north shore, so to facilitate agriculture on the island’s south, its early settlers created a series of man-made aqueducts known as levadas. Madeira is home to more than 804 km (500 miles) of levadas, a feat of engineering recognized by Unesco. Today, the island’s levadas, as well as its veredas (a general word for a path) double as hiking routes, which often pass through spectacular scenery and landscapes that include waterfalls, cliffs, jungle and incredible viewpoints.

Feed the birds at Fanal Forest

Fanal Forest is one of Madeira’s most magical spots, a place where time seems to stand still. Known for its ancient, twisted laurel trees often shrouded in mist, the forest feels like something out of a fairytale. But what makes a visit to Fanal even more special is the opportunity to feed the birds that inhabit this serene environment. The forest is home to a variety of bird species, and they’ve grown accustomed to visitors offering them treats. Bring along some birdseed or nuts, and you’ll quickly find yourself surrounded by these friendly creatures, eager for a snack.

It’s a peaceful, almost meditative experience, watching the birds flit between the branches and down to your hand, with the eerie, misty forest as your backdrop. If you’re visiting Fanal, take a moment to connect with nature in this unique way—it’s an experience that adds a special touch to the already enchanting atmosphere of the forest.

Climb the Pico to Pico hike

The Pico to Pico hike, linking Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, is often hailed as one of the best hikes in Europe — and for good reason. This challenging trek takes you through some of Madeira's most dramatic landscapes, with jagged peaks, deep valleys, and breathtaking vistas around every corner. While the hike is incredibly popular at sunrise, with many flocking to catch the first light of day, it’s important to note that the weather can be unpredictable.

We experienced this firsthand—after an early start, we were greeted by thick clouds and zero visibility at the top. Determined not to miss out before travelling home the next morning, I returned for sunset and was rewarded with absolutely stunning views, and best of all, hardly any crowds. If you're planning this hike, keep an eye on the webcams, as the climate changes quickly in the mountains. Whether you catch it at sunrise or sunset, the Pico to Pico hike is an unforgettable adventure that showcases the wild beauty of Madeira.

Go dolphin and whale watching

Madeira has become well known as a hotspot for catching a glimpse of a variety of magnificent sea creatures. This includes spotted, striped and bottlenose dolphins, and sperm and beaked whales. Dolphin and whale watching trips off Madeira are especially known for the high chance of spotting some of these creatures on any given trip. A number of boat companies offer dolphin and whale-watching excursions, and give travellers the added bonus of being able to take in the magnificent views of the islands from the sea too.

Visit Garajau beach

This small beach at the bottom of a cliff in the Garajau National Park can only be accessed by cable car. Arriving in style is all part of the experience of this secluded beach. The calm and clear waters have made it a popular spot for snorkelers and scuba divers too.

Escape to Porto Santo Island

Get to know one of Madeira’s other islands while discovering the best beaches by taking the ferry from Funchal to Porto Santo Island, just 27 miles away. Porto Santo Island is definitely a place for beach lovers, as it has a white sandy beach that extends more than 5.5 miles. Many people believe the sand on Porto Santo Island has healing properties, helping to soothe many ailments, aches and pains. The more actively minded also love Porto Santo Island for the water sports on offer, ranging from windsurfing and paddle boarding to surfing and kitesurfing.

Swim in a lava pool

Volcanic pools built by nature are Madeira-specific bathing spots.

The most famous volcanic pools are the pools in Porto Moniz. Funchal also has its own pool complex called Doca do Cavacas. It is smaller and still remains in the shade of the Porto Moniz pools, but offers a magnificent view of the Cabo Girão cliff and … better weather, because this is usually the best on the southern coast.

Stop at every Miradouro you will encounter on the way

The best way to discover Madeira is by car. It is worth learning the meaning of the Portuguese word miradouro – an observation deck – as there are plenty of marked signs leading to different observation decks. Some are right by the road, and it is a matter of minutes, and to some, you will need to hike a bit. If you have time, it is worth checking out every viewpoint you will notice because sometimes we can be pleasantly surprised.

There are way too many beautiful viewpoints on Madeira to mention all in this post, but the most popular ones, which I also recommend, are:

Balcões, Cabo Girão, Eira do Serrado, Miradouro do Guindaste, Véu da Noiva and Eira da Achada.

In Funchal, Miradouro Pico Dos Barcelos is pretty popular, and on Porto Santo- Miradouro da Portela. Both Madeira and Porto Santo actually have equally beautiful viewpoints with the same name – Portela.

Step off the Cabo Girão cliff

It takes a while to adjust your mindset. Madeira’s staircase geography of lush green terraces and dark, plunging cliffs is so abrupt and dramatic, it’s hard to comprehend when first you see it. So go to Cabo Girão early in the trip and accelerate your acclimatisation. Here, not far from the island capital of Funchal, a wall of rock drops 589m, straight down on to one of the island’s all-but-unreachable strips of faja farmland. And to deepen the sense of awe, the clifftop viewpoint has been rebuilt to include a glass-floored skywalk. Some people will tell you this is the highest cliff in Europe. It isn’t, but your heart will be thundering all the same.

Taste Madeiran wine

Madeira wine is, essentially, cooked. Hundreds of years ago the island’s winemakers discovered that if they fortified their produce and took it on a long, hot sea voyage to the East Indies, it became delicious and almost impossible to spoil. Once bottled, it can last for centuries. Now, of course, the process is more scientific, but the estufagem of the wine is still the key — as you’ll learn on one of the many guided tours on offer at the wine lodges of Funchal. Some offer free tastings in their shops, but it’s always worth opting for a longer, more detailed visit, such as Blandy’s vintage tour, on which you’ll try some of the finer wines.

Ride the Monte toboggan run

Who needs snow? It’s more than a century since the locals in the village of Monte realised that their wicker sledges could carry people down into Funchal, just as well as fruit and veg. And it wasn’t long before the island’s growing number of tourists were joining them. On the steep road that drops away from Monte’s church (near the top of Funchal’s cable car) it’s not hard to get going, especially if you’ve greased the runners. It’s the stopping that’s the problem, which is where your team of two carreiros come in, keeping speeds down to 20mph and pulling up after just over 1.5km.

Hike the Ponta do São Lorenço

Rock, sea, sky: everywhere you go on Madeira, the elemental forces that have shaped the island are unmistakable, and never more so than when you hike to the Ponta do São Lorenço at the island’s eastern tip. Here, on a long, crooked finger of land, Mother Nature is in manic mood. Contorted strata of coloured rock writhe through the cliff faces while the sea churns below, and on some of the narrower paths the wind can be positively terrifying. So pick a day of (at most) gentle breezes, go with an experienced guide and get ready to fall in love — probably for the first time — with geological formations.

Towns you must visit

Porto Moniz

This village on the northern tip of Madeira is home to geographical phenomena that cannot be missed. The lava pools of Porto Moniz were formed by volcanic lava and now fill with clear seawater. These natural swimming pools cover an incredible 3,800m² surface area, giving plenty of space for peaceful swims. There is also a children’s pool and disabled access. Also in Porto Moniz is the Madeira Aquarium. Found in a fascinating location in the old fort of Porto Moniz, the village provides an intriguing historic backdrop. The aquarium itself has various tanks helping visitors learn more about Madeira’s sea life. Those who love a bit of adventure can even go inside one of the largest salt water tanks, joined by rays, sharks and hundreds of colourful fish.

Praia Formosa

Praia Formosa is the largest beach complex on Madeira’s main island, with a black sand beach. This beach is popular with Madeirans and visitors alike, as it’s especially convenient to access from Funchal. On the way between Funchal and Praia Formosa is Doca do Cavacas. While there’s no beach here, there are some amazing natural pools on a rocky outcrop that juts into the sea.

Santana

Nestled on Madeira's northern coast, Santana feels like stepping into a storybook. This quaint town is famous for its "palheiros," charming thatched-roof houses that dot the landscape, each one more picturesque than the last. Surrounded by lush green mountains and the Atlantic's deep blue, Santana offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and cultural charm. It's a place where you can immerse yourself in the island's rural traditions, with the chance to explore the stunning Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage site. And if you're up for some adventure, the nearby levada trails, like the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, lead you through breathtaking scenery, with waterfalls and lush valleys that will leave you in awe.

Whether you're exploring picturesque villages, hiking up to Pico do Arieiro for panoramic views, or relaxing on the golden sands of Porto Santo, Madeira is a destination that promises unforgettable memories at every turn.