Northumberland Travel Guide
The Northumberland coast, much like its wild and rugged interior, is sparesely populated. Rather than bustling seaside resorts, you'll discover picturesque villages dominated by castles, lining extensive stretches of broad, and sandy beaches that you may just have all to yourself.
This month was our first ever visit to the North East, but certainly not the last. I’m not sure what expectations we had before setting off from a drearily-clad Manchester, but when we arrived we felt more at peace than we ever could’ve imagined.
About Northumberland
Northumbria, as it used to be known, was one of the most powerful Anglo-Saxon settlements and was a powerhouse of the Christian Church in England. Its role in early Christianity can still be felt throughout the county, with many homages to the venerable bede and less famous (or mainstream you could say) saints. Due to its proximity to Scotland, there are many links to the Mary, Queen of Scots and the Jacobite Rebellion.
Today, Northumberland is home to a significant engineering sector in no small part thanks to the legacy of the Armstrong Family who bought Bamburgh Castle and are responsible for many modern inventions.
Things to do
Visit Holy Island
An absolute MUST on any visit to Northumberland, and one of our trip highlights. Holy Island is one of the most iconic and historically significant sites in the country. Accessed at low tide by a causeway, this beautiful little island has a few pubs, a great café, and even a castle to explore.
We recommend walking around the nature reserve where your chances of spotting wild deer are high. From here, venture to Lindisfarne Beach — an all-to-yourself cove perfect for a dip after your stroll around the island.
Lose yourself in the wonder of Barter Books
Barter Books is much more than a second-hand bookstore. It is one of the largest second-hand bookshops in the UK. Housed in the old train station in Alnwick (pronounced An-ick) it is beautiful, has a wonderful-looking cafe and separate ice cream shop and a wonderful model railway. The collection of books is exceptional, and there is a catalogue you can search to find what you’re looking for.
Castles, castles, castles
Northumbrian castles and stately homes are like no other. In just a few days we ticked off Bamburgh, Lindisfarne, Alnwick, and Dunstanburgh. The roads here are so quiet you can easily add extra places to your day without overpacking it. While Bamburgh Castle often takes all the glory after being a filming location for The Last Kingdom (and is 100% worth the visit), we recommend a trip to lesser frequented Dunstanburgh. Built in the 12th century, it cuts an imposing silhouette on the cliffs overlooking the sea. A great walk from Newton by the Sea or Craster.
Go stargazing
Northumberland National Park is a rare Dark Sky area which means the view of the night sky is spectacular. Fill up your thermos, grab your binoculars, download the stellarium app and park by the roadside to see what is on offer. Or if like us know your limitations, you can visit the Dark Sky Observatory and they’ll guide you through what you’re looking at.
Take a boat to the Farne Islands
A trip to The Farne Islands offers a unique opportunity to witness an incredible array of seabirds, including puffins, terns, and guillemots, in their natural habitat. You can also explore historic ruins and lighthouses while experiencing the rugged beauty of these remote islands, making it a must-visit destination for nature lovers and history enthusiasts alike.
Alnwick Gardens
Alnwick Gardens are meticulously landscaped, varied and vast. The Duchess of Northumberland’s vision for a forgotten plot is now a truly 21st century experience full of imagination, inspiration and fun. Designed by Jacques and Peter Wirtz, The Garden is a wonderful combination of spaces, themes, quirkiness and play. From the tranquility of the Cherry Orchard, the excitement of the Grand Cascade and the mysteries of the Bamboo Labyrinth, to the Serpent Garden’s spell-binding water sculptures, the intrigue of the Poison Garden and one of the world’s largest tree houses – there’s plenty to surprise and delight.
Wide open spaces
Northumberland is one of the most sparsely populated areas in the country, meaning the chances of you having a trail all to yourself is almost guaranteed. Our favourite hikes from the trip included:
Yeavering Bell - classic moorland vistas
Hadrian’s Wall - simply unmissable!
Lindhope Spout Waterfall - deep in the Cheviot Hills
Explore Cragside
Cragside House in Morpeth is a jewel in the crown of the National Trust in the UK. The grounds cover 6 miles and it is advertised as the UK’s first ‘smart home’ and was owned by the Armstrong family (them again). It’s not difficult. to see their wealth and status from visiting the house.
Cragside does come with a fee if you’re not a National Trust member but it’s well worth the entry fee. Not only is the house large, but the variety of things to see on the grounds including hydroelectric plants, a rock garden, numerous circular walks and an iron bridge make a whole day out.
Cost: from £22.00 during peak season, from £11.00 off-peak for adults.
Places to stay
Doxford Cottages
Doxford Cottages is an idyllic retreat for those looking to immerse themselves in nature, history, and tranquility. These cottages serve as an excellent base for families, couples, friends, and solo explorers alike. The minute we set foot on the grounds we felt instantly at home and ready to unwind.
Trees at Tughall
These cabins are built to help you experience nature without distraction, located just four fields from Beadnell village and Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Each cabin has its own specific relationship to its surroundings, creating bucolic moments and unique connections to the outdoors. The cabins are built purposefully to help you live minimally and totally unplug. It was a stark change from the wide open space we experienced at Doxford, but a welcome opportunity to connect with nature and hit the reset button.
Places to eat
Dine in a castle drawing room, amongst fairy-lit treetops or al-fresco beneath the stars in Northumberland. The North East coast has everything from riverside restaurants to fish shacks on the beach, so you can make your next meal one to remember. Some of our highlights from the trip included:
Embers, Alnwick - The best pizzas in the area by far. Beautiful setting (including highland cows), good tunes, a dynamic young chef and either alfresco or takeaway dining options.
Lewis’s Fish and Chips, Seahouses - The best fish and chips in the area. Best eaten at the end of the Big Pier watching the boats in Seahouses harbour.
Bait at Beadnell - Beach café style food. We think there’s nothing better than eating your lunch in the dunes, watching the kitesurfers in Beadnell bay.
