A wild walk in Yorkshire: don’t miss this thrilling Howgills lollipop loop to England’s highest waterfall

Start: Layby near The Cross Keys Temperance Inn, Sedbergh (what3words: maybe.beaks.redouble)

Distance: 5 miles

Duration: 2-3 hours

Elevation: 1,600 feet

Difficulty: Moderate

Navigation: Follow step-by-step on komoot, or download GPX file

About the route

Tucked into the folds of the Howgill Fells, this satisfying lollipop route climbs from Sedbergh’s fringe to Bowderdale Head and loops around England’s highest above-ground waterfall: Cautley Spout. Starting from the 500-year-old Cross Keys Temperance Inn, you’ll enjoy gentle beginnings, a moderate high-fell climb, and a dramatic waterfall finale.

A path of contrasts, think pastoral lowlands, broad fells, and steep-sided valleys - this is one of the best routes to get a taste of the dramatic Howgill scenery without big scrambles or crowds.

Route difficulty

This is a moderate walk suitable for hillwalkers with a basic level of fitness. The loop section includes some steeper ground, exposed felltops, and one boggy stretch above the waterfall.

Walk type: Moderate

Terrain: Pasture, fell paths, rocky sections near waterfall, occasional bog

Accessibility: Not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs

Dog-friendly: Yes, on leads (sheep country!)

Why you’ll love this walk

England’s highest waterfall (200m tiered cascade)
Start and finish at a stunning heritage tearoom
Sweeping views from Bowderdale Head
Varied terrain: meadows, fells, ravines

Route highlights

The Cross Keys Temperance Inn Begin with tea and homemade cake at this historic National Trust inn. It’s one of the oldest temperance inns in England — no alcohol, just charm and good food.

Bowderdale Head Reach the high point of the route with views across the Howgill Fells. Wild, expansive, and surprisingly quiet.

Cautley Spout The showstopper: a dramatic, multi-step waterfall plunging nearly 200m into the valley below. Best viewed after rain, and photo-perfect with long exposure.

Things to do nearby

Sedbergh: England’s official Book Town — indie bookshops galore
Farfield Mill: Heritage craft centre with art and textile exhibits
River Rawthey: Ideal for a post-walk paddle or picnic

Getting to the starting point

By car: From Sedbergh, take the road north toward Cautley. Just past The Cross Keys Temperance Inn, you’ll find a small lay-by for parking (limited spaces, arrive early).

By public transport: Catch a train to Oxenholme, then take a Western Dales Bus (S1T, S1W, S5 or S6 depending on the day) to Sedbergh. On select days (Tues, Thurs, Fri), you can continue on the S5/S6 to the Cross Keys lay-by.

OS Grid Ref: SD 698 969 What3words: (what3words: maybe.beaks.redouble)

Following the route

I use komoot and OS Maps for offline navigation. To follow the full route step-by-step on komoot, click this link here or download the GPX file and upload it to your preferred app.

How to extend your adventure

Continue beyond Bowderdale Head for a full Howgill traverse
Detour east to Aygill Force waterfall
Explore more of the Rawthey Valley on a return loop

Is this walk suitable for beginners?

This is a good step-up for walkers used to lower-level rambles. There are some steep sections, but no scrambling. If you’re building confidence with fell walks, this one ticks all the right boxes.

When’s the best time to do this walk?

Late spring to early autumn (April to September) is ideal. May and June give lush greenery and good waterfall flow. Winter can be icy and boggy.

Good to knows

No toilets at the start (use the pub before or after)

Mobile signal fades on the fells — download offline maps
Waterproof boots essential after rain
Limited parking, especially at weekends
Paths are not always waymarked — GPX or Komoot recommended

A scenic circular walk to Cautley Spout (the highest waterfall in England)